Some might say, Old Town in Phuket feels like Chinatown - and you wouldn’t be completely wrong. As you walk through the alleys and peer into the shops, you’ll get this 1920s Old Shanghai atmosphere. When you glance at the architecture, you’ll wonder, was Thailand ever colonized by the European countries?
A Quick History of Old Town Phuket and the Tin Industry
Phuket prospered during the 16th century, thanks to the tin mining industry. Unlike other Asian countries, Thailand was never colonized. They were really good at adapting to the Western Powers’ way of doing trade and handling politics. One after the other, different western powers were given rights to mine and trade tin in Phuket. They were eventually replaced and expelled overtime from the 1500s-1800s, starting with the Portuguese, Dutch, Britain and French.
Throughout the centuries, Phuket became a melting pot of Siamese, Chinese, Malays, Indians, Eurasians and ‘Sea Gypsies’ (aboriginal Malay people that found there way along the coasts of Southern Thailand).
By the 19th century, about 50,000 Hokkien Chinese immigrated to Phuket. They became the labor powerhouse of tin mining. As they were big in number, the Old Town became a thriving community of Chinese migrants. Reason being, a smart Hokkien Chinese man realized and seized the opportunity to setup his tin mining operations where Old Town is located today.
The community of Hokkien Chinese tin miners that married Women from Phuket call their community, ‘Babas’. Overtime, they developed their distinct culture, gastronomy and lifestyle.
In the 20th century, the Thai government invited European mining companies to exploit their tin resources. This resulted in many infrastructure development projects to support the tin modern trade. That’s why there are so many Sino-Portuguese architecture in Old Town today.
Eat and Snack like a Local
We met this local lady who recently started Touchwood Yoga Studio in Phuket. She gave us her recommendations of places to eat, and snack in Old Town. Also, my Thai friend’s girlfriend who visits Phuket yearly gave us her top recommendations. So, here’s the summary:
Lock Tien - Phuket Local Food Center
If you’re looking for a local food court to enjoy different Thai and Nyonya delicacies, this is a solid, and economical spot. When the Brits setup their tin trading post in Phuket, it was all thanks to the work of Francis Light, founder of Penang in Malaysia. During this time, many Peranakan Chinese ladies from Penang made their way here. So, influence of their cuisine did impacted the Phuket Baba recipes. Here, you can find a mix of Thai and Nyonya dishes.
Dishes here range from 35 to 100 THB. Drinks between 15 to 40 THB. Simply order with the waiter or at the stall, and they will bring the food over to you, at least that was our experience.
Michelin Recommended A-Pong Mae Sunee: อาโป้งแม่สุณี
A-Pong has now become a famous desert in Phuket. You can find them among many shops in Old Town. Thanks to Malaysians from Penang who brought this recipe to Phuket. Sunee setup shop about 50 years ago, and today, her son keeps her legacy going. A-Pong is a crêpe shaped in a circle on a charcoal stove. Once it becomes golden brown, it is folded into a cylindrical shape. It’s got sugar, flour, egg, coconut milk and yeast.
Desert at Torry’s Ice Cream
Highly recommended by local Thais. This is THE place to enjoy scoops of locally flavored ice cream. The interior design brings you back to the 1920s. If you’re like me, and you want to try absolutely everything, they have this options where you can order 6 scoops for about 450 THB. However, if you are only enjoying Thai ice cream and deserts between 2-3 people (like us…), the portions were way too much for us! They also offer them by the scoop at 85 THB/scoop or have a mini 6 scoop option (I’d recommend that!).
They offer standard and seasonal Thai flavors, so hope you get to try some awesome seasonal options! We enjoyed the: Chocolate Soya Sauce, Pineapple & Passion Fruit Mojito, Coconut Milk & Blue Pea Flowers, Goat Milk, Tao Sor Black Sesame, and Peanut Butter & Jelly. My favorite was the Pineapple one. I found the Chocolate Soya Sauce most interesting, but very challenging to finish!
Caffeine Break at Dou Brew Coffee & Craft
One thing to admire about the Thai people is their love for coffee, and their goal to perfect this craft. As of 2014, Thailand was ranked in the Top 25 coffee producers in the world. It’s all thanks to King Bhumibol Adulyadej who launched coffee projects in the 1970s to help northern Thai communities replace opium poppies production with a new cash crop, coffee.
I ordered a pour over, so I can taste the lovely Thai Arabica coffee bean notes! However, if you prefer Ethiopian or Colombian beans, they’ve got those in spades. I enjoyed watching my coffee master weigh the beans, then grind them manually. Set the water temperature to perfection before pouring it over the grind to make a fresh cup of joe.
Dinner at Tu Kab Khao
Local Phuketians say this spot is too touristy, but as a Thai domestic tourist, my friends pay their respects here on the yearly! Personally, I loved it. In Thai homes, Tu Kab Khao refers to ‘a cupboard for food’. The owner built this restaurant in memory of his mother would would prepare food and leave it in the Tu Kab Khao. Beyond Thai food, you can enjoy local Phuketian recipes inspired by his childhood in a beautifully decorated space.
The noteworthy dish here is ‘Gaeng Leng’, which is the yellow curry fish dish to the right. Oh my, the heat builds up with every scoop. Mix it with rice, and you will become a spice addict. Please handle with caution. My friend’s technique is to NOT drink water during the entire process of enjoying his Gaeng Leng because it makes your tongue rage for the fierce spice levels.
Grab a final desert at TAIPAN
With the influx of Chinese migrants mixing with the Thai community, deserts also went through a fusion revolution. One thing that Asians love is a soupy desert with fried dough. Not to be mixed with the club TAIPAN in Patong (rowdy party district), this is TAIPAN, the ‘Chinese-Thai’ desert spot in town.
Try not to be jealous of the lineup at Phuketique - Burnt Butter Toast
I was wondering, why is there such a huge lineup? I found out, this was the famous spot for burnt butter toast with ice cream. For 150 THB, your dreams can be fulfilled.
After all the grub, you might want to hit the bars in Patong and dance it off! Or, sleep in so you can visit a yoga studio,
Muay Thai gym or
surf school to burn it all off! It’s no wonder many folks come to Thailand as a healthy and well-being vacation destination.
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